Taiwan had been in the imperial sights of the Japanese empire long before her colonisation in 1895. Though conventional wisdom holds that ...
Taiwan had been in the imperial sights of the Japanese empire long before her colonisation in 1895. Though conventional wisdom holds that Taiwan’s neighbour to the north was seduced by the island's abundant wood, coal and metal deposits, we think the real reason (in part, at least) might have lain elsewhere. For a people as wenquan (hot spring) crazy as the Japanese, the thought of having some of the world's finest hot springs so close to home yet not under imperial control must have been discomforting to them to say the least. And of course, there's the issue of prestige; for the rest of the world to discover that the finest hot springs in Asia were anywhere else but in Japan might have implied an unbearable loss of face. Clearly Taiwan, and her amazing geothermal waters, would have to be incorporated into the empire. The Japanese knew the truth, one the rest of the world is slowly finding out: when it comes to hot springs, Taiwan is second to none.
Taiwan is ranked among the world's top 15 hot-spring sites and harbours a great variety of springs including hot springs, cold springs, mud springs, and even sea-bed hot springs. Its worth noting that the most ociferous pilgrims to Taiwanese hot springs come from - you guessed it -the land of the rising sun. And as in Japan, the same geological forces that frequently shake Taiwan have caused the island to be riddled with hot springs (talk about the curse spitting up a gift).
WHAT’S IN THE WATER?
Water bubbling up from underground picks up a variety of minerals that offer a veritable bouquet of health benefits. Aficionados claim that Taiwan's waters are practically magical when it comes to healing various infirmities, and that knowing which waters are good for what ailments is a key to health. While we can't attest to the miraculous qualities of all Taiwanese hot springs, we do know that after a long hike, we always head for the nearest one (aching muscles being one condition on which all hot springs seem to work like a charm).
Bathers in Yangmingshan will notice waters there have a milky colour and mildly sulphurous odour. Waters in Beitou have an even stronger sulphur reek, which some find overpowering. Waters from Yangmingshan are said to be excellent in the treatment of ailments such as arthritis, measles and gout, while those from more acidic and sulphuric Beitou are said to be especially good for dermatitis and other skin ailments. Places such as Renze and Hungye (both on Taiwan's east coast) produce waters of an alkaloid nature, and are favoured by people who don't like the ‘rotten egg’ smell of the northern sulphuric springs. These waters are said to have a calming effect on the nervous system, as well as being good for stiff muscles and skin ailments. Closer to Taipei, the Jiaoshi springs also produce water that is clear and odourless, slightly salty and calcium- and potassium-rich to boot. This water offers similar benefits to the alkaloid springs down south.
THE TAIWAN HOT-SPRINC EXPERIENCE
Setting is a major part of the appeal of any Taiwan hot-spring experience. The best developed springs are found in valleys or meadows surrounded by green mountains, on hillsides overlooking the ocean, or (as is the case with Jauri springs on Green Island) actually on the beach itself. Sometimes the facilities, which include restaurants and cafes and rooms for an overnight stay, are almost as nice as the views. But the popularity of such places sometimes comes at the expense of water quality (more on that later).
Some of our absolute favourites are the wilder ones that lie beside cool rivers in deep remote valleys. We like them not only because they are free in the ‘born free’ way, but also because they literally cost nothing. Wild springs can be found around the island, most often up in the mountains. One of Taiwan's most famous wild springs lies in a river bed deep inside Taroko Gorge; unfortunately, this spring has been closed by recent landslides, and whether it will be opened again by the time you read this is anybody's guess.
If you are looking to explore wild springs beyond the ones we mention (and there are scores more), pick up a copy of Taiwan Wild Hot Springs by Sunriver Press ( bnfiit). at any outdoor shop. The book is in Chinese but the maps are good, and with minimal help translating walking times and locations, you should be able to use it.
Hot-spring resorts come in a variety of shapes and sizes. In addition to having rooms (available by the night or hour) with tubs waiting to be filled with pumped-in spring water, most spa areas also have large public bathing complexes, with multiple pools, jets and showers. Charges typically range between NT300 and NT500 for an unlimited time, though prices are higher around Taipei. We have started to really enjoy using the outdoor facilities as the range of bathing options is entertaining and the views are usually better than from out the window of a hotel room. Room tubs are also often a little too small for a single Western frame (to say nothing of two).
THINGS TO AVOID
It's unfortunate but many of Taiwan’s springs are victims of their own popularity. Random health checks are showing a disturbing trend of overuse. Hotels and resorts must often dilute natural hot spring water, and even recycle water between bathers. This is common around the world, even in Japan, but we still don't like it. So our recommendation is twofold: first, generally speaking, the less developed the area, the purer the water quality; second, since many of the worst offenders come from among the oldest and most expensive hot-spring resorts, avoid these unless we indicate otherwise. If you're going to be soaking in diluted mineral water, or water mixed with a little sulphur powder, you might as well not pay top dollar.
0 comments:
Post a Comment